Touring to Hong Kong? Right here’s what it’s good to know.



Protests in Hong Kong have been dominating video clips and newsfeeds since June 9, when the Hong Kong authorities proposed a invoice that may enable China to extradite fugitives to the mainland. Since then, initially peaceable weekly protests have grown in dimension, encompassing calls for for political self-determination and private autonomy, and have grow to be more and more agitated. On October 1, China’s Nationwide Day vacation, a protester was shot throughout one confrontation. (See how Hong Kong’s advanced historical past explains its present disaster with China.)

“Customer security is of the utmost significance for us,” mentioned Hong Kong Tourism Board PR consultant Brea Burkholz. “But it surely’s a protected and welcoming metropolis, and there was no violence or crime dedicated towards vacationers.”

A web site supplies common updates, and the vacationer board has a chat room for guests to attach immediately with representatives, 9 a.m. to six p.m. each day (Hong Kong Customary Time). “We’re doing due diligence with airline, lodge, and tour companions to substantiate they’re able to present help within the occasion of journey disruptions,” mentioned Burkholz.

Nonetheless, in August, Hong Kong vacationer arrivals fell 40 %, in keeping with Monetary Secretary Paul Chan Mo-po, the biggest drop for the reason that SARS outbreak in 2003. What’s it actually like to go to there now?

I had the chance to seek out out throughout a 14-hour layover at Chek Lap Kok Airport two weeks in the past. Earlier than heading out to town, I checked the most recent replace for Hong Kong on the U.S. State Division web site (“train elevated warning”), then beelined to a tourism sales space within the arrivals space.

Any areas I ought to keep away from right this moment? I requested.

“The protests are all the time on the weekends,” she informed me. “However let me examine the schedule to verify. We’ve knowledgeable sources who inform us what shall be occurring every day.”

She scrolled via texts on her telephone. “Hmm, the College of Know-how,” she mentioned. “Don’t go there. And if you wish to go to the Peak Tram, go now, as a result of there’s a protest scheduled for six p.m. on the Chater Backyard.”

“However”—she supplied a caveat—“there are all the time last-minute modifications.”

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On the floor, the whole lot appeared because it was on my final go to to Hong Kong six months in the past. A commute throughout the harbor aboard the Star Ferry was nonetheless an intoxicating experience. The venerable avenue vehicles navigating Hong Kong Island continued to offer a thrill. However right this moment, as protests neared their fourth month and continued to upend town, it was simpler to get a seat on the in any other case packed trams. They even appeared to maneuver a little bit sooner, much less encumbered by the same old pokey site visitors in Central, town’s primary enterprise district. (See the advanced historical past of Hong Kong, visualized.)

My first cease: Man Mo Temple. The Taoist place of worship is devoted to the god of literature and the god of warfare—a great place for me to begin—and was present process restoration work. However the common crowd of vacationers was lacking.

Since protests began in June, customer numbers to locations comparable to Man Mo Temple, in Hong Kong’s conventional Sheung Wan neighborhood, have decreased.

{Photograph} by Picture by Chris McGrath, Getty Pictures

I strolled alongside Hollywood Street east to Lan Fong Yuen, a café that’s mentioned to have invented “silk stocking milk tea”—black tea handed via lengthy, pantyhose-like nets. Almost each seat within the cramped café was taken, and I used to be proven to a desk with a Korean mom and grownup daughter who had been busy capturing their breakfast on cameras.

On the subsequent desk, a bunch of upbeat twenty-somethings visiting from the Philippines eagerly dug into their breakfast. Any hesitations about touring to Hong Kong, I requested them?

“No,” mentioned one younger man. “Hazard is in all places.”

On the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, I used to be eerily alone with the meerkats and the lemurs—alone, aside from a half-dozen or extra groundskeepers targeted on retaining the fountains and aviaries immaculate, regardless of a dearth of holiday makers.

The look ahead to a experience on the Peak Tram, the 131-year-old funicular that scales Victoria Peak, can typically exceed two hours. I discovered no line in any respect; the funicular departed barely half-full. The spectacular harbor view on the summit confirmed why guests are often keen to courageous a prolonged queue. (See images of Hong Kong’s stunning inexperienced areas.)

The Peak Tram has been ferrying guests from Central district up Victoria Peak since 1888.

{Photograph} by Sergi Reboredo, VWPics/Redux

In Kowloon, the mainland facet of Hong Kong, a Viking cruise ship was parked at Harbour Metropolis Ocean Terminal. A dozen passengers contemporary from the airport had been queueing for embarkation aboard Viking Orion for a voyage headed to Beijing. The largely American passengers appeared nonplussed by protests that had taken place simply blocks from the port.

“We first got here right here 32 years in the past,” mentioned one passenger. “That is such a wonderful metropolis, and the whole lot I used to be studying in the previous couple of weeks informed me we’d be protected on our stopover right here.”

“The protests are on weekends,” his spouse added. “So we weren’t too apprehensive coming via throughout the week.” (Study the highest 10 issues to do in Hong Kong.)

After a day of wandering, I hadn’t met any Hongkongers who shared sharp opinions of the protests, come what may. There was largely a sense of frustration and resignation. A mom strolling her child alongside the waterfront informed me her coronary heart is with the protesters and he or she hopes they’ll prevail with out bloodshed.

Demonstrators maintain up cellphones as they kind a human chain on the Peak, a well-liked vacationer spot in Hong Kong, on September 13, 2019.

{Photograph} by Kin Cheung, AP

“However I don’t understand how lengthy this could proceed,” she mentioned. “Each side are standing fairly agency, and I don’t see a lot compromise.”

Quickly it was time to make my approach again in direction of the airport and my night flight. I entered an MTR subway station beneath certainly one of Hong Kong’s most storied inns, The Peninsula. Right here, the writing is on the partitions: Publish-It notes canvass one hall with nameless phrases of assist for the protesters; different yellow squares are used to recreate iconic photographic photographs.

Even throughout the week, Hong Kong’s protest lives on, quietly. However so does life for Hongkongers.

David Swanson is a San Diego-based freelance writer-photographer. Comply with him on


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